In September 2023, we have traveled to Cyprus with a tiny baby and a toddler (who was just turning 3 during the trip). We went there for a wedding, followed by a little road-trip on our own. We fell in love with this beautiful island !
The blue water, the beaches, the food, the mountains, the pine trees, the architecture, the music, the sun, Cyprus has it all. But what I think makes this little country so outstanding is the blend of cultural background it gets from its rich (and tragic) history. As of today, the northeast portion of the island is occupied by Turkey (since the 1974 invasion) and is separated from the Republic of Cyprus by the United Nations Buffer Zone.
This article is a mix of a guest post written by our friend Athena (the Cypriot whose wedding we were attending) and our own insight and experience as a family with young kids.
Here is Athena’s post :
Cyprus is a special place, and despite the view being slightly biased because we were born there, it has never failed to disappoint any visitors. It combines scorching sun, endless sandy beaches, scenic mountains, amazing food, centuries of history and a very active nightlife.
And the best part is that it’s so compact, you can squeeze a lot of those even things into the same day. Explore the best of Cyprus, like the locals do.
There are two international airports : Larnaca and Paphos. Nicosia (the capital) is at 40 minutes by car from Larnaca airport and 2 hours from Paphos airport. The Famagusta region (Protaras and Ayia Napa) is only 30 minutes from Larnaca airport and features some of the island’s best beaches.
Nicosia, the Republic of Cyprus’s capital city
The only city in Cyprus without the sea. What it lacks in beaches, it makes up for in food and culture. Make sure you visit the old city, surrounded by Venetian walls. The main artery of the old city is Ledras street and the surrounding alleys. It features shops, restaurants and cafes, and is very popular with the locals, especially on weekends. Make sure you park outside and walk, as once you enter the narrow streets it may be a challenge to navigate.
Highlights in Nicosia :
- Odofragma – Traditional Cypriot grill meze restaurant, in a beautiful yard setting, in
a quiet neighbourhood. - Kyriakos (Ofton Kleftikon) – Specialises in kleftiko (traditional Cypriot lamb dish
cooked for hours with potatoes in a sealed clay oven). - Qboo Bakehouse – Amazing bakehouse serving brunch, light lunch and coffee.
- A κχoffee project – Daily roast specialty coffee.
- Lost & Found bar – One of the world’s top 50 bars, great cocktails and overall vibe.
- Pahit- Ice – Must try Cypriot ice-cream chain in various locations. Rose and lemon sorbet as well as green apple, hazelnut and dark chocolate are only a few of our favourites.
- A walk around the old city, ending on the Green Line (the UN Buffer Zone) and a coffee around Faneromeni Square with a view of the church.
- Severis Foundation, if you’re curious about the history. Cyprus was occupied by the Venetians, the Ottomans and the British, and it only gained independence in 1960.
We stayed near Nicosia for the wedding but didn’t went into the city. The flat with an outdoor playground we rented on Airbnb was amazing for a family and worth mentioning.
Larnaca, the main airport in Cyprus
This is where you’ll probably land, and where you will surely feel the hot, dry whiff or the eastern Mediterranean air that immediately shouts ‘home’ to so many of us. Larnaca is a very compact city, and worth a short visit if you are spending longer than a weekend in Cyprus. The most thriving area is by far Mackenzie beach, with an array of beach bars and restaurants to fit every taste and budget.
If you’re an aviation nerd, you can also enjoy some decent plane-spotting, as the beach is located right next to Larnaca Airport.
Highlights of Larnaca airport :
- Rebuke, Almar, Lush and Ammos are all good options when at Mackenzie.
- For a traditional seafood option, locals swear by Zephyros.
- Taverna To Patrikon – A hidden gem, which puts a modern, gourmet twist on traditional Cypriot dishes and is surrounded by wind turbines.
- Finikoudes beach – In a massively tongue-in-cheek way, Finikoudes strip is the Nice promenade of Cyprus. Head here for some afternoon strolling and visit to Saint Lazarus church, where his tomb and scull can be found.
- At sunset you get amazing colours around the Salt Lake, to the shores of which you find the Hala Sultan Tekke mosque and cemetery. If you are lucky, you might also spot the lake’s annual visitor, the flamingo.
Protaras and Ayia Napa, the beach destination in Cyprus
Protaras is like a natural extension of Nicosia during the summer months. A mere one-hour drive takes you to some of the island’s best beaches, with white sand and turquoise waters.
And there’s an abundance of them, too. You will find sunbeds and kiosks serving coffee and snacks at most of them, so just take your towel and sunscreen and show up. Most beaches are usually public in Cyprus, so the price is fixed at €2.50 for a sunbed and €2.50 for an umbrella (which you’ll need).
Highlights in Protaras and Ayia Napa :
- Konnos bay – Found beneath Grecian Park hotel, Konnos combines beautiful trees, great views and amazing waters.
- Isola Beach Bar – Call ahead to book sunbeds. Located on Nissi Beach, one of the most beautiful beaches of the island, Isola is open for beach time, lunch, dinner and drinks.
- Cliff bar – Part of Grecian Park, it’s a great place for enjoying a drink with stunning views after spending the day at Konnos. Alternatively, you can head there at night for cocktails and shisha.
- Mousikos tavern – Off the beaten path in the village of Sotira, what used to be known as a best kept secret has become so popular that during peak holiday season in August, you need to reserve a table weeks in advance. Do it, you won’t regret it.
Make sure you get their homemade halloumi, that comes straight from the oven. - Kalamies – If you’re wondering where the fish places are, this is one to put on your list. Kalamies used to be a traditional fish tavern, but over the recent years it has transformed into an upscale fish restaurant with a romantic setting.
- Vassos tavern – On the other hand, if your idea of eating fish is fluorescent lights, a few cats and sweaty men serving food, Vassos is the perfect place for you. It’s next to the Agia Napa harbour and it’s equally good for lunch or for dinner. Innovatively, they also serve sushi, and it’s pretty great too.
Our experience with kids at Protaras and Ayia Napa
During our 5 days in this area with beautiful beaches, we stayed at the Chrysomare Beach Hotel and Resort (the most luxurious we did in Cyprus). It was relaxing to stay in a resort with the kids, and we really enjoyed the food offered in the all inclusive package. Clémentine didn’t find it too difficult to eat with her lactose allergy. The pools were nice but the beach by the resort was really disapointing.
However, we drove to absolutely stunning beaches nearby following Athena’s recommendations : we enjoyed Nissi Beach and had the best day at Konnos beach.It was a bit tricky to get down there with the kids from the parking lot, but 100% worth it. Go there early, before it is too hot and too crowded to park. Also, pack only the essentials because you are going to have to carry everything up and down some stairs. It was the most beautiful beach we experienced in Cyprus. The ice on the cake was being able to snorkel without having to swim far (our son saw some fish in the shallow water).
Day cruise from Protaras and Ayia Napa to Famagusta Ghost Town
We did a half day cruise along the coast, including snorkeling stops. The cruise went all the way to the border, with a viewpoint on the Famagusta Ghost Town. We wanted to get more on the island’s history, but were a bit disappointed by the very few information shared by the guide. The cruise, however, was conformable with kids.
Paphos, the cultural destination in Cyprus
If I didn’t live in Nicosia, I would definitely pick Paphos in the South, to settle myself. Before the tunnel through the mountains opened, providing easier access to the most cut-off Cyprus city, people from the rest of the country (especially Nicosia) would joke that Paphos is an entirely different country. In some ways, it is. There is so much to do as a visitor Paphos and the surrounding areas, combining sea, mountains and history, you can easily spend a week there. This is also where the second airport on the South of the island is located, so you might be landing here alternatively to Larnaca.
Highlights in Paphos :
- Akamas peninsula – For nature lovers, hire a 4×4 and go driving and trekking around the island’s most beautiful and (almost) entirely pristine natural forest. If you are lucky enough, you might spot Caretta Caretta turtles swimming next to you as well.
- Blue Lagoon – A stunning, extremely famous and popular beach, more easily accessible by boat. This is one of my favourite things to do in Cyprus (and in general). Go to Latchi harbour and hire a boat for the day, load it with snacks and drinks, plug in your iPod and sail off. It’s best if you go in the afternoon, so you can drive back during the sunset and then combine with a fresh seafood dinner at one of the restaurants on the harbour. And if you don’t feel like a captain yet, don’t worry. There are also group boats so you just get to enjoy the ride (and the swim).
- Archimede’s, Ice cream – If you know me well enough, you know I am a sucker for ice-cream. Here you’ll find traditional and original Cypriot tastes other than the rose, which are all prepared by an old man in the business for over 40 years.
- Oniro by the Sea – Head here for dinner and sunset cocktails next to a shipwreck, and make sure you have your camera at the ready!
- Sofia and Andreas Traditional House – Set in this couple’s actual garden and under their vine, they will cook the most delicious homemade food for you, all while demonstrating how they do halloumi and anari cheese as well as bake bread.
Essentially the visit is a complete Cypriot hospitality experience. - Historical and tourist sights are abundant in Paphos, with the most popular ones being Petra tou Romiou (Aphrodite’s birthplace), Tombs of the Kings and the Mosaics.
Our experience as a family with baby and toddler in Paphos
After our friend Athena’s wedding, we started our road trip in Paphos. We spent 6 days in Paphos, and really enjoyed our time there, between culture and nature. To avoid the heat for our little ones, we went out in the mornings, then headed back to our hotel for the after lunch nap and waited until 4 pm to go out again.
Family friendly accommodation in Paphos
We stayed at the Helios Bay Hotel. It was good value, we appreciated having a small flat with a kitchen. The only downside were the British guests drunk by the pool early in the morning.
It was a nice walk outside of the hotel on a promenade along the coast (with a playground not too far). The gardens behind the hotels leading to the beach were lovely and we enjoyed the little rocky beach area.
For dinner, we recommend the Indian restaurant, Poppadums Tandoori, conveniently located in front of the hotel and with a playground (and tables by the playground).
Visits in and around Paphos
The visit to the Nea Paphos archaeological park was so impressive. It is definitely a must do ! Go early to avoid the heat. Sadly it was too big for us to visit it all with the kids, but our eldest really enjoyed what we managed to see especially the mosaics. We were blown away by how well preserved everything was.
After, we went around Paphos old town and city center and ate at Gyros Serre.
While we were very tempted to go to the Akamas Peninsula, we were told it would be difficult with tiny humans as it is so remote. Instead, we visited the Kremiotis waterfall and walked in nature at Monashilaka. It was very nice to still experience the forest and nature inland Cyprus.
Finally, we really wanted to see a monastery and went to the Chrysoroyiatissa Monastery. We loved the breathtaking scenery around the monastery and the gorgeous view. A beautiful visit from which we came back with some wine to taste.
Beaches in Paphos
Coral Bay is one of the beach we visited. Also, following Athena’s recommandation we had a beautiful night at Oniro By the Sea and loved the sunset over the wreck. We really wanted to cruise to Blue Lagon and had schedule that for our last day but sadly it got cancelled due to the weather.
On Athena’s reco as well, we stopped at Petra Tou Romiou on our way to Aya Napa. There we saw the mythic Aphrodite’s rock, where the goddess is supposed to be borned. Again, we recommend going there early as it was crowded and very hot around 11am.
Limassol
Although the beaches here are not great, the fact that Limassol is a seaside city has given rise to countless beach bars and clubs, while the opening of the new marina saw numerous restaurants (some quite upmarket, especially for Cyprus standards) make their appearance.
It’s worth spending a night here just to explore the local nightlife, especially the area around the Old Castle and Saripolou square, where the locals gather; but also to have an excuse to stay in one of its fancy hotels.
Highlights of Limassol :
- Gin Bar at Library Bar – A firm favourite for drinks and pizza in a cozy garden in the heart of Limassol.
- The Modern Kitchen – Alternatively to the above, you can try this for a Cyprus inspired pizza.
- La Isla – Beach bar and restaurant. Good for brunch and drinks.
- Sousami bar – For alternative types, Sousami is an LGBT-friendly bar with a small and cosy patio, with DJs often spinning left field and electronic music. Great for casual drinks.
- Saripolou square – For bar hopping (Tapper is a cozy one) and some amazing coffee (Elektrika Idi, Wagmi, Uluwatu are just a few).
- Agios Epiktitos Tavern – Cypriot meze in the most unbelievable setting, especially at sunset.
- Kourion Amphitheatre – A very well preserved ancient amphitheatre, which is still being used for shows. It sits on a hilltop and provides breathtaking panoramic views of the sea below.
The mountains of central Cyprus
Due to its very compact size, Cyprus is perfect for day trips. The Troodos mountains feature a vast selection of villages and sights, the latter mostly being in the form of old churches.
They’re very easy to drive around and navigate, and depending on where you’re staying, you can choose to visit the picturesque village of Lefkara, known for its needlecraft art, or head further inland to explore some of the beautiful old churches and monasteries.
Highlights of the mountains :
- Lefkara, Omodos and Platres – Are all very popular amongst Cypriots as they have a different character. Explore either to admire the colourful doors and traditional lace making in Lefkara, winery and tavernas which have transformed Omodos village or hike the Caledonian falls in Platres.
- Wineries – You can follow different wine routes accordingly, as there are many suggestions on google. For a special wine you can only have in Cyprus and dates from the time of the crusades, follow the Commandaria routes.
- The Mills Hotel & Restaurant in Kakopetria – For having some fresh trout straight from the river while feeling its breeze.
- Troodos mountains for the highest peak in Cyprus at 1,952 metres (6,404 ft) called Mount Olympus. You can hike up in the summer, while in the winter it gets snowy so would only do if you know how to ski.
- Machairas Monastery – On the grounds there’s a museum dedicated to Grigoris Afxentiou, a Greek Cypriot insurgent leader who participated in EOKA’s campaigns during the 1955-1959 war, which then gained Cyprus its independence.
Our experience attending a Cypriot wedding at Aes Ambelis winery
We are so glad we got to experience the mountain through the beautiful village of Lazanias where Athena and Elias’ wedding ceremony was held.
The day started with the Allamata which is the dressing of the bride and groom. We loved seeing our friend getting dressed with dance and music ! This is done separately in the respective home of the bride and groom. Throughout the ritual a violin and a lute accompany each stage with a specific traditional Cypriot music : the groom is shaved, the bride is dressed including jewels and shoes, parents, best man, maid of honor, a priest and a lot of family members and close friends got involved in the dancing).
This was followed by an orthodox celebration with an ancient Greek service in a small church with a spectacular view. The bride and groom where wearing crowns connected together (the Stephanas).
This beautiful day finished with an evening dinner and party at the Vignoble Aes Ambelis, this outdoor venue was so impressive and the food (and wine) delicious. We had an amazing time dancing (with both kids strapped on us and asleep, thanks to the baby carriers and the noise cancelling helmets we brought with us)!
Tips on the island of Cyprus
- Cyprus is modern, but public transport is not great (at all!). Renting a car is fast and easy, and you can do it at the airport with all the popular car hire companies. A taxi from Larnaca airport to Nicosia will cost you roughly 50€. There is also a shuttle bus service called Kapnos, which is cheaper and runs frequently, but is slightly slower. Taxis are very easy to book, there are local numbers you can call and a driver shows up a few minutes later. Alternatively, Bolt is a mobile application you can use to order a taxi to your location.
- Cyprus is in Europe. Which means we use Euros.
- Tipping is not mandatory, so just round the bill up.
- When you’re eating meze, don’t feel under pressure to finish your food. It’s humanly impossible, unless you’re a participant of Man vs Food
- Reservations are mostly done over the phone, but everyone speaks English.
- If you can, try and go to a bakery, called ‘fournos’ in Greek. You will get amazing bread and also my favourite, almyra (literally meaning ‘salty ones’). They are savoury pies filled with a range of ingredients, including cheese, olive paste and sausage. You’ll find them everywhere.
- Wear sunscreen.
Our experience renting a car with kids in Cyprus
We pre-booked a car before our arrival for our entire stay with Holiday Autos. Be careful you need a credit card under your name otherwise they will make you pay a costly extra insurance (which we had to do because our international Revolut card we booked with is only a debit and they wouldn’t let us change the booking through a different card when we got there).
We had brought a car seat for our little baby. We were glad we did as per usual, like everywhere we have rented cars with child seats in the world, the car seat from the rental for our eldest was crap.
Driving in Cyprus was ok, the roads are modern. Make sure you drive on the left hand side. Be carreful if you drive outside roads because you can get charged extra by you rental company if you have an issue.
Is Cyprus a kid friendly destination ?
Absolutely, yes it is ! Everybody was super friendly, everything seemed safe and easy with the kids. I would say the only difficulty, going there in September, was to managed the heat and sun !
Thus, to conclude this article, if you are ever invited to a wedding in Cyprus and you are hesitant to go because you have young kids, don’t, go for it !
Clémentine’s Reading List on Cyprus
- The Island Everyone Wanted: An illustrated history of Cyprus, by Marina Christofides (Author) and Eleni Lambrou (Illustrator). This was recommended by our friend’s Athena. It is the most perfect books for kids and grown-ups to discover the history of the island.
- As a big fan of Lucinda Riley, I had to take her novel set in Cyprus, The Olive Tree (also published under the title Helena’s Secret) to read there.
This is a short reading list, if you have any other suggestion, especially from Cypriot artists, please let us know !