Site icon Voyage de miel

Safari Zambie, Malawi, Tanzanie (Zanzibar et Serengeti) & Kenya

One of our dreams was to encounter animals of the African savannah. So we set off on a wild safari adventure across five East African countries.

After a stop in the Seychelles, we finally set foot on the African continent. We started with a volunteer experience in a private reserve in Zimbabwe (where we did our first safaris). From there, we embarked on an incredible safari road trip: 20 days to reach Kenya by land.

For this leg of the trip—and unlike the rest of our world tour—we chose to join a group tour. Through the travel agency African Overland Tours, we enrolled the Nomad “Victoria Falls to Nairobi: 20 Days” tour. This overland trip is done aboard a 4×4 truck. We chose this tour mainly because of its affordable price, but also because the dates and departure point matched perfectly with our volunteering time in Zimbabwe.

So we hit the road for many kilometers! After leaving Zimbabwe, we passed through Zambia, Malawi, Tanzania, and Kenya. Along the way, we visited villages and discovered local history and culture. But above all, we had the chance to observe even more wildlife in stunning and diverse landscapes.

A dream come true, this was the trip of a lifetime! However, if we were to do it again, we wouldn’t go through an organized tour. Find out why in our tour review.

Zimbabwe

It’s important to note that the tour starts in Zimbabwe, without including any visits or activities in the country. In our case, we had the chance to discover the wildlife, landscapes, and Zimbabwean culture during our volunteer experience.

Also, we spent two days in Victoria Falls before joining the group. Check out our top 10 things to do in the city and our accommodation suggestions for all budgets. It would be a real shame not to arrive a few days before the tour to enjoy this area—at the very least, go see the incredible Victoria Falls!

On the first day of the tour, we left at 7 a.m. after an early meeting (6:30 a.m.) at the Victoria Falls Rainbow Hotel. We crossed the bridge over the gorge near the falls without even a stop to take a look. This bridge marks the border between Zimbabwe and Zambia. So we had our first very long wait to get our passports stamped and pay for our visas.

In the town of Livingstone, we made our first stop to buy groceries (especially for lunch, since not all meals were included). We were disappointed to learn we had to buy drinking water even though we had been told it was included. However, we were able to get Jerry cans of water and store them in our assigned lockers in the truck (locked with our own padlocks) to refill our bottles whenever needed.

We then began our first—of unfortunately many—long day on the road.

 

Zambia

Road, road, and more road… Lusaka and Petauke

Our journey brought us near Lusaka, where we arrived at night at Eureka Camp. We saw a few animals upon waking up before heading out for another day on the road to another campsite, Chimwemwe Executive Lodge in Petauke. On the morning of the third day, we saw and did nothing more but endure the uncomfortable and exhausting ride in our truck (which came without air conditioning or suspension). We couldn’t understand why the journey started in Zimbabwe and not further up. After another half day on the road, however, we finally reached an amazing place!

South Luangwa National Park

Magical campsite: Wildlife Camp South Luangwa National Park

We stayed in safari tents at the Wildlife Camp in the South Luangwa National Park. It was one of our favorite accommodation, an incredible experience with wildlife. The view of the national park and Luangwa River is breathtaking. We were surrounded by nature, watching elephants, giraffes, hippos, and other animals in this unfenced park. Indeed, there were no barriers separating us from the animals! We were even given a safety briefing on how to act if we encountered an elephant or a hippo at the camp. And yes—we did come across two elephants during our stay. Also, we were not allowed to walk around at night without being escorted.

We stayed in a permanent, comfortable tent. However, we were bothered by a few spiders, and a toad hiding in our toilet paper gave us quite a scare (followed by even more laughter!). The view of the river and its animals from the front of our tent is something we still dream about!

It truly was an adventure!

The next morning, we enjoyed watching the sunrise, relaxing, and taking in everything the camp had to offer in terms of wildlife observation. There were even two hides for watching hippos up close. Some members of the group went on an (extra-fee) excursion into the park, but we felt the camp already had so much to offer. Plus, we already had an included safari scheduled that evening.

 

Night Safari in South Luangwa National Park

The landscapes of South Luangwa National Park are stunning. On the afternoon, we saw many animals: elephants, zebras, giraffes, hippos, impalas… and a group of 6 lionesses napping! An incredible safari!

At sunset, we enjoyed a drink before heading off for a night safari with the goal of spotting leopards. We only had one big light, so visibility was low. Our driver and his trained assistant spotted animals for us. We saw hippos out of the water, sleeping giraffes, and a leopard crossing the road in front of us! It was an extraordinary and impressive safari experience!

 

Malawi

On the fifth day of the tour, we hit the road again, crossed the border, and entered Malawi. The landscapes leading to our destination, Lake Malawi, were pleasant—especially toward the end of the journey through the Nkhotakota Wildlife Reserve. Lake Malawi is beautiful and peaceful, with lovely sandy beaches and traditional wooden boats along the shore.

Lake Malawi

Relaxing at Ngala Beach Lodge

We spent the day enjoying the lake and visiting the nearby village around our hotel, Ngala Beach Lodge. The hotel was very comfortable (we appreciated the pool) and offered many activities, some free—like canoeing.

Camping at Majizuma Lake Malawi

On the seventh day, we continued north along the lake. The drive took three hours longer than expected, another tiring day. On arrival, we were dismayed by the condition of our accommodation (the worst of our world tour) at Maji Zuwa, Water & Sun Resort. Our room was filled with cockroaches, grasshoppers, and thousands of ants. The toilet bowl was cracked in two… We were very thankful to be traveling with silk sleeping sheets to protect us from bedbugs and especially with our own mosquito net. Due to overbooking, we couldn’t switch rooms until the next day.

The rest of the campground was much better than our room and offered a stunning view of the lake. Sunrises were epic. In the evening, we had a choice of activities, but unlike what we had thought, only the hike was included in our tour.

Hike from the Lake Malawi to Livingstonia: Waterfalls and History

The next morning, we hiked up to Livingstonia. The hike started at 7 a.m. with the first highlight being the Manchewe Falls—the tallest waterfall in Malawi. We then explored a cave behind a small waterfall that was once used by locals to hide from slave traders. The hike was extended by an hour, and we made it to our final destination, the town of Livingstonia. We were a bit disappointed by the town and would have preferred turning back at the falls. Especially since the hike took the entire day and was quite strenuous in the heat!

Caution: At Lake Malawi, swimming can expose you to schistosomiasis (bilharzia), so swimming is unfortunately discouraged—even though the water looks very inviting. Also, it seems that hotel pools and showers nearby often use lake water, so that’s something to keep in mind.

 

Tanzania

A Dream Night at Kisolanza Farm

On our ninth day, we undertook a 13-hour drive to reach our first destination in Tanzania. We stayed at the charming Kisolanza Farm. The accommodations were very comfortable, and we loved the candlelit dinner. Being isolated and slightly elevated, we were amazed by the starry sky. The contrast in accommodation quality throughout the tour is surprising, and we regretted not having more time to enjoy this one.

Safari in the Mikumi National Park

On the tenth day, we hit the road again early morning toward Mikumi National Park, one of the largest parks in Tanzania. We explored the park in a 4×4 truck in the afternoon. We were very impressed—not only by the number of wild animals we saw (although no predators)—but also by the stunning settings. Here, the savannah is surrounded by mountains.

 

Camping at Asante Afrika Camps & Lodges

That evening, we camped on the edge of the park at Asante Afrika Camps. We had to be escorted to our rooms, but in the end only saw warthogs (no elephants like in other camps). The rooms were very basic but comfortable. “Asante” means thank you in Swahili.

Dar es Salaam, Tanzania

On the eleventh day, we drove (once again, for a very long time) to Dar es Salaam. This city is the largest in the country, the main port, and its economic center. It was also the former capital, now replaced by Dodoma.

We stayed at the Sleep Inn Hotel – Kariakoo, a very decent hotel.

The city is very lively and bustling. We ended our stay with a visit to a very interesting and iconic market: Kariakoo Market.

Zanzibar

From Dar es Salaam, we took a ferry to the island of Zanzibar. Although the island is part of Tanzania, we had to go through full passport and luggage checks—as if crossing a border. The boat crossing took only 1.5 hours, but we waited a long time for the controls.

We didn’t know what to expect, and we weren’t disappointed. The island is a delightful mix of Arab, African, Indian, and Persian cultures. It’s also rich in history—from the old town to the Indian Ocean, where we sailed at sunset on traditional wooden boats. Zanzibar has historically been at the center of trade exchanges.

Accommodations in Zanzibar

We stayed at two different places on the island, and we appreciated the change as each was a very different experience.

We started our stay at the Amaan Bungalows. This hotel is close to the beach and good restaurants, with a lovely pool and comfortable rooms for relaxing.

After two nights, we moved to the Ocean View Lodge. We really liked this place. The water isn’t very clear and it’s not ideal for swimming, but it’s a great spot for sunsets (which can be enjoyed from the bar). On Sunday evening, the beach vibe was amazing, with Zanzibaris playing, jumping into the water, and even holding impressive flip competitions. As soon as the sun set, the beach emptied and everything became calm—even though we were close to the city.

 

Restaurants in Zanzibar

We were won over by the local cuisine. Fresh fish and lobster were delicious and affordable, enhanced by a wide variety of spices found in local markets. Our advice: eat outside the hotels!

We enjoyed local, inexpensive restaurants like Cocoa Restaurant and Mama Africa. At Baraka Beach Restaurant, we indulged ourselves with our feet in the sand. We had a delicious platter with lobster, shrimp, fish, calamari, and octopus. One dish for two was more than enough.

 

Activities in Zanzibar

Be aware that on the island, you are likely to be heavily solicited for activities. Prices and the quality of services vary greatly. Booking directly from the beach might not be the best option.

Our few days in Zanzibar were organized through a different agency, Sun Tours and Travel Zanzibar. In the end, we could have skipped this additional-cost package. Indeed, we could have easily organized these three days on our own and rejoined the group later.

To start, we visited a spice plantation. It was an interesting visit, but with many extra charges (even though we thought everything was included), so we felt a bit scammed.

Visit of Stonetown

Stonetown’s Covered Market: Darajani Market

Our tour of Stonetown (still with Sun Tours and Travel) began at its covered market. At Darajani Market, you can find everything. But we especially noticed the spices and fish. The first part is a treat for the senses, the second much less so. Our travel companions were really disgusted by the smell and sight of the fish, but we’ve seen more shocking markets around the world. Plus, some fish were actually laid on ice, which is more hygienic than directly on the floor!

Old Town of Stonetown visit

Next, we visited the old town, and having a guide was very valuable. Every corner of these narrow little streets holds a charming architectural surprise. The blend of influences and the history of Zanzibar is clearly visible: colonial buildings, Omani palaces, Hindu temples, and mosques. There are several hundred magnificent old carved wooden doors. It made us want to wander around, but unfortunately, the guide didn’t give us any free time.

Zanzibar Slave Market

Visiting the former slave market (Old Slave Market) left a strong impression on us. In the 19th century, hundreds of thousands of people were sold there. Indeed, Zanzibar’s history is also very dark, and the island was long known globally as a central hub for the slave and ivory trade. When we arrived, we saw the moving statues of chained slaves and then descended into the dungeon where they were held before being sold at the nearby market.

In the adjacent exhibit, the information panels also provided more context on the historical and geopolitical background. However, we were very frustrated not to have time to read everything before the guide called us back. The joys of group travel!

Nonetheless, we learned much more about a subject that feels distant in Europe (even though Europeans were the cause of it). A telling anecdote: when we discussed this with one of our guides in Tanzania, he was stunned to learn that we had never visited slave markets in Europe!

 

Boat Tour in Zanzibar: Dhow or Jahazi, a traditional sailboat

Another activity on the island: we boarded a traditional sailboat. A dhow (or “boutre” in French) is a wooden sailing boat with triangular or trapezoidal sails. In Zanzibar, it’s called jahazi (also spelled jehazi). This tour was planned to enjoy the sunset while admiring the island from the sea. We loved the landscapes, the vibe, and the historical explanations aboard this beautiful boat.

This tour (not included in the safari) was booked with Sun Tours and Travel, which also arranged our transfer to the island. It’s very easy to also book one directly on-site.

 

Diving in Zanzibar

Zanzibar also gave us a new opportunity to dive — something we couldn’t miss. We did our own research and chose the dive center Spanish Dancer Diver, which was located next to our hotel. They also offer snorkeling trips for non-divers, and we enjoyed the lunch and snacks provided.

The atmosphere was great, and we dived at two spots around the Mnemba Atoll. Despite rather difficult conditions due to strong currents, we were spoiled with beautiful marine life and tons of fish. The real surprise, however, was a group of dolphins with their babies that came to greet us 15 meters below the surface — a dream come true!

Sadly, it wasn’t humpback whale season — we’ll have to come back for that.

 

Safari in Serengeti National Park, Tanzania

Bagamoyo

After Zanzibar, we returned to the African mainland in the town of Bagamoyo, spending a night on the beach at Bagamoyo Travellers Lodge. Once again, we were frustrated not to have the time and opportunity to visit Bagamoyo, which seemed historically fascinating.

Arusha

On the sixteenth day of our trip, we embarked on a grueling, non-stop journey from 5:30 a.m. to 7 p.m. to reach the city of Arusha. This city is the main starting point for Serengeti safaris. We arrived at night at our poorly maintained hotel, Ndoro Lodge, only to discover that the rain had turned the access road into a mud rink.

The driver forced the way forward, and the truck skidded. After wobbling from side to side, the truck tipped — and we were incredibly lucky that a tiny tree stopped us from falling into a ditch. We all got out, more or less calmly, by crawling through the driver’s cabin. This was the only road incident of our world tour.

After this dramatic and late arrival, we prepared for our 4-night camping safari expedition in Serengeti National Park.

Serengeti Safari

First of all, you should know that this experience was not included in our organized tour package—it had to be paid for separately. So, although most of the other group members did it, some stayed behind and only went on the Ngorongoro Crater safari. This excursion was organized by Tanzania Experience, who guided us throughout the expedition.

As we arrived around the Ngorongoro area, we discovered breathtaking landscapes. On the way to Serengeti, we passed by Maasai villages and started to see the first savannah animals alongside Maasai livestock. Gradually, herds of livestock gave way to groups of gazelles, and we encountered our first predators: lions and hyenas. Unfortunately, we made very few stops on the way, as we had to reach our campsite before sunset.

The next day, we spent the entire day on safari in Serengeti National Park, observing animals in their incredible natural habitat. We were delighted by this day of safari before returning to our camp.

 

The Ngorongoro Crater

For our nineteenth night of the Nomad tour “VICTORIA FALLS TO NAIROBI: 20 Days”, we headed to another campsite to visit, the next day, the Ngorongoro National Park. We saw fewer wild animals, but the landscapes were stunning. We also stopped in a Maasai village and discovered a very different way of life.

Visit to a Maasai Village: meeting the legendary Maasai warriors

After seeing many of them along the way, surrounded by the cattle, goats, and sheep that make up their herds, we stopped at a Maasai village. The Maasai are a semi-nomadic population of herders and warriors in East Africa (mainly central and southwestern Kenya and northern Tanzania). Their houses (built by the women) are oval-shaped, made of interwoven branches covered with cow dung and mud that becomes waterproof after drying in the sun. Maasai life revolves around livestock, their primary food source. The men lead the herds into the savannah to graze. When the animals can no longer find food, they move to a new territory and rebuild the village.

This is a highly political topic in Tanzania, as the government has repeatedly tried to expropriate Maasai lands. They often live on the edge of reserves used for safaris, and tensions arise from wild animals that can attack villages and livestock. The guide also told us about rituals and initiations for teenagers to become officially recognized as adults. Young men must prove their courage and undergo circumcision, while young women still sometimes face genital mutilation. Their dances and ceremonies are very impressive and include jumps so high they seem almost inhuman—we got to witness a demonstration.

This visit was imposed on us and made us somewhat uncomfortable. While we found it very interesting to learn more about the Maasai people, and we understood that tourism (especially the purchase of souvenirs like wooden carvings and jewelry) contributes to their economy, entering their private space like this gave us a feeling of voyeurism.

Safari in the Ngorongoro Crater

We spent the morning of the twentieth day exploring the Ngorongoro Crater. We woke up with our heads in the clouds—we were over 2,000 meters above sea level. The atmosphere was magical, and as soon as we descended into the crater, we passed beneath the clouds. From there, we observed herds of wildebeest and many other animals. Unfortunately, we didn’t witness the Great Migration (despite what had been advertised to us), but the number of animals in the crater (hyenas, wildebeest, ostriches, hippos, elephants…) made up for that. We returned to the Ndoro Lodge in the afternoon.

To conclude, we were very happy to have chosen to spend a few magical days in Serengeti Park and the Ngorongoro Crater, even if it meant an extra cost that made us hesitate for a long time.

 

Camping in Serengeti Park and the Ngorongoro Crater

For this part of the trip, we camped in tents. We were very excited, but we have to admit we were disappointed by the huge campsites with hundreds of tents and very dirty sanitary facilities. However, the lions that came at night and roared around the tents of our unfenced campsite significantly enhanced the experience. That said, it was nothing like the dreamy nights we spent during our wild camping while volunteering in the Zimbabwe reserve.

To conclude, the Ngorongoro Simba Campsite particularly disappointed us, as we didn’t feel like we were in the middle of nature. This part of the trip came with an additional (non-mandatory) fee, and it’s something we regret (as we explain further below).

 

How to pack for a safari excursion in Serengeti?

The first thing to expect is dust! Be prepared to be covered in it—yourself and everything you bring with you. Then, pack for both cold temperatures (bring warm clothes) and sun protection. Good mosquito repellent is also essential. Lastly, although it’s not eco-friendly, wet wipes for cleaning yourself and wiping off dust may still come in very handy.

 

Kenya

Nairobi

For our last day of driving (phew!), we traveled from Arusha to Nairobi. Our incredible African road trip ended in Nairobi, the capital of Kenya. For this final stage, we simply spent two nights at the Sentrim Boulevard hotel.

After a final dinner with the group, whom we were sad to leave after spending so much time together, we enjoyed the full day of our twenty-second day by exploring the city on our own (with friends whose return flight was also the next day).

Nairobi Giraffe Centre

To start, we went to the Giraffe Centre Nairobi. The center’s goal is to reintroduce endangered Rothschild giraffes, and it is possible to get close to and feed them.

Being the number one activity on TripAdvisor in Nairobi, we had high expectations for this visit, which we found extremely disappointing. First of all, we received very little information about the giraffes and the reintroduction program. Six males permanently reside at the center, but it felt odd to be able to touch giraffes that are supposed to be reintroduced into the wild. We left very skeptical about the visit and hope that our admission fee truly helps the giraffes and is not just a way for tourists to take Instagram photos of themselves kissing poor giraffes (who never asked for it). We were even more disappointed because we had done extensive research beforehand to ensure it was an ethical organization.

 

Nairobi Elephant Orphanage

Then, we had a wonderful experience at the Sheldrick Wildlife Trust Nairobi Elephant Orphanage. This is a beautiful project: adorable baby elephants are rescued and then reintroduced into the wild. Indeed, a young elephant whose mother has died (naturally, or due to humans as it is mostly the case) has no chance of survival on its own. The elephant orphanage borders the Nairobi National Park.

It was a pleasant hour spent listening to an excellent guide talk about this topic while watching the baby elephants play and drink their bottles. In addition to presenting the elephants, someone spoke to us about the program and educated us on actions we can take individually (an obvious example being to stop buying ivory products).

It was cheaper than the Giraffe Centre, and here we felt we were contributing to helping the elephants rather than exploiting them for tourism purposes. Hopefully, this is true — like with all wildlife tourism, it’s hard to be certain.

 

Karen Blixen’s home and museum

Our afternoon was dedicated to visiting the home of the author Karen Blixen: the Karen Blixen Museum. A literary visit curated by Clémentine, but also much appreciated by Nicolas (even without knowing her work). The figure of Karen Blixen, despite being symbolic of the colonial era, is highly respected in Kenya. This historic site allowed us to deepen our understanding of this controversial historical period while feeling as if we were in the movie Out of Africa (a film that inspired entire generations to visit this region of Africa). Our visit (plan about an hour) was so great thanks to the very enthusiastic student who served as our guide (not mandatory and paid by tips).

Although we did not have the chance to eat there, we wanted to mention here the restaurant, which looked really nice.

A memorable day to end our East African tour, and from Nairobi airport, we took a direct flight to the final destination of our world tour: Egypt.

Review of our safari road trip from Zimbabwe to Kenya through Zambia, Malawi, and Tanzania

Safaris / game drives in East Africa

This safari experience in Tanzania, Zambia, and Malawi was completely different from how we observed nature during our volunteer work in Zimbabwe. In tourist jeeps, drivers follow the routes of the “big five” (lions, leopards, elephants, rhinos, and buffalo) and rush to these animals without taking time to linger on the multitude of small creatures and beautiful plants around. Also, all the jeeps follow each other. As a result, there are always crowds, and sometimes we felt more like being in an amusement park than on a nature safari.

Finally, the most beautiful landscapes and the best safaris in terms of the number and variety of animals observed were undoubtedly those in Tanzania. However, these safaris are much more expensive than in other countries, and it is definitely possible to enjoy a great African safari in the other countries we visited.

Nomad organized tour

As you may have sensed if you read this entire article (congratulations for reading it all, it is so long!), we were not convinced by our group tour, Nomad “VICTORIA FALLS TO NAIROBI: 20 Days: 20 days from Victoria Falls to Nairobi, booked through the travel agency African Overland Tours.

Was an organized tour necessary?

First, we don’t think it suited the way we wanted to travel. We were a bit intimidated by this first trip to Africa. In the end, we met many independent travelers. So, we felt it would have been possible to travel on our own with good preparation (at least having an itinerary and accommodations booked in advance) in southern and eastern Africa. We also saw quite a few couples or families at our campsites traveling in campervans rented locally, and this mode of travel seems ideal to us. Of course, one must consider the difficulties and uncertainties of the roads, as well as visas and border crossings if you plan to visit multiple countries.

Our feedback on the Nomad African Overland Tour

We had received many positive reviews about Nomad tours, but apparently this one was not one of the good ones! Several people in our group were regular Nomad travelers and were disappointed. However, the price was reasonable compared to the cost of shorter safaris organized for couples or families by agencies.

Accommodations during the Nomad African Overland Tour

We chose the slightly more expensive tour option with accommodations; some people in our group slept in tents. We didn’t expect high-quality lodging, but we were very surprised by the huge disparities. Sometimes, we felt like we were in luxurious accommodations, and there were several times when we would have preferred to sleep in a tent or even in the truck!

Route, driver and guide

Our itinerary was actually completely unrealistic and we almost every day we arrived ridiculously late at our destinations, while our driver took absolutely no breaks. It was both dangerous and ridiculous; nobody dared to ask for restroom stops. We didn’t expect to have so many pure driving days without any visits. The truck was very uncomfortable, with mechanical suspension (which is easy to repair but offers poor comfort).

Furthermore, during the drives, we had no explanations or commentary from our guide, who was not very good at his role. Indeed, we could never know in advance where we were going…

Activities on the Nomad African Overland Tour

Unfortunately, many activities that seemed included at booking time were extra paid. Also, with all the driving days, it was far from 20 days of safaris… We were disappointed by the great lack of information and transparency about the paid excursions, which were ultimately absolutely unnecessary.

Food during the Nomad African Overland Tour

We ate very, very little local food, which was a big disappointment for us! The water that was supposed to be included was not.

Atmosphere on the Nomad African Overland Tour

Finally, the atmosphere was not very good. This was partly due to the guide and driver. But, also, to the frustration caused by organizational and communication problems on the tour.

Conclusion on organized group tours

To conclude, long organized group tours are not our cup of tea! We now know that for our next trip to Africa, we will travel on our own.

During our world tour, however, we really enjoyed one-day group excursions, as well as our multi-day tour in the Australian outback.

 

Clémentine’s “Safari in Africa” reading list